TRAVEL ADVICE #2 – What to take

To celebrate 20 years on the road – across the planet – I’ve decided to begin a series of advisory posts: 2 > WHAT TO TAKE … Sure I know there’s plenty of advice out there on this particular theme – and it’s subject to individual needs and the purpose and duration of their trip but what-the-hell here’s my offering for those on the road for many months, this list mostly based on the contents of my backpack now spread across the floor of my hotel room here in downtown Freetown, Sierra Leone.

> DOCUMENTS – hidden money-belt with a Passport that has plenty of pages anda long life (6 months or less until expiration will be refused visas by most embassies).

> Up-to-date vaccination passport – especially Yellow Fever certificate.

> Emergency cash in US Dollars, Sterling or Euros hidden beyond your main money-belt; get bank cash advances or better still global ATM access to your travel funds at home via a VISA credit card but make sure it has a pin number and get two cards, one stashed for emergencies (Note: Mastercard & Amex are not that widely accepted beyond the West); WATCH OUT – Traveler’s Checks are largely useless or a real hassle to change in much of the Developing World.  

> Passport photos ready for visa applications.  

> Travel Insurance can be good for piece of mind – both medical cover and personal effects … BUT depends on your outlook and budget.

> Copies of documents on paper and also maybe on a pocket flash-drive and/or also stored in an email account.

> Backpack (my 40-can-expand-to-a-55 liter) with fold-away dust/rain-cover; the pack body is rugged, tall and slim – as opposed to wide and bulky – which is better for squeezing into crowded places like buses, stations, etc. For security, in rooms and in transit, all the zippers can be padlocked. And I also use an additional combination-lock and wire to secure my pack to a pole, inside a cupboard, etc. 

> A Daypack / sling bag is essential for small trips and hikes and when taking your valuables with you onboard transport when your main pack may be flung on a bus roof or in a taxi boot. My daypack is rugged, slim, 20 liter with rain-cover. And the pack is attached to my main pack by snap-chain and carried in front when on the move to new locations. (For my purposes my daypack is well-padded to hold the few consumer items I own: Nikon DSLR camera with lenses & accessories; small video camera; 10” laptop @ 1.5 kg, with extra 120GB ext. drive; MP3 player; etc. But what you need is most probably much less weight and hassle: So unless you are a pro-photographer or totally nomadic like me and live out of your backpack – the ELECTRONICS I would recommend you travel with include a MP3 player, compact digital camera with portable storage, and maybe a mobile phone).

> ESSENTIAL ITEMS include flashlight; sunglasses; hat or cap; sun-block, alarm clock; Swiss Army Knife (for opening beer, tinned food, wine, and survival in wilderness); 2 liter water bottle (collapsible to save space) and a water purification solution; compass; 2 pens with some writing paper; maps; guidebook & local language phrasebook; paperback book; light stainless mug and water heater element (very useful when you stay awhile and want to domesticate oneself by boiling water or eggs or to make tea or coffee or instant noodles or packet soup); inflatable neck pillow for sleeping on transport; ziplock plastic bags to waterproof & compartmentalize everything for quick, easy searching and packing of small items; earplugs; and depending the climate – mosquito repentant and net, silk sleepingbag liner &/or a small compacted sleeping bag; needle and thread; candle & lighter; photo of your family to show interested people …

> CLOTHING is a matter of personal need but I have the following presently in Africa – and can buy others when needed in colder climates or a work situation – 2 loose, pocketed trousers with zip-off legs; 3 t-shirts; 2 shirts, 4 underwear; small quick-drying towel; rain poncho (that can also be a ground sheet for sleeping rough); sarong (for relaxing about but also to use as a shower dress or towel, head-cover or scarf); study hiking sandals; and for cold snap emergencies: thermal top and bottoms, thermal beanie and 1 pair of socks (I will also carry hiking boots, more socks, a gore-tex jacket and tundra fleece if traveling beyond the tropics).

> MEDICINES – not an exhaustive list but have at least most of this: pain-killers like Paracetamol or Asprin; antihistamine; anti-shit pills – Immodium for stopping the flow on a journey and Flagl for serious bowel problems; a course of Malarone post-exposure anti-malarial pills (it’s impractical over all these years for me to take daily tablets to prevent Malaria); sleeping pills (for light sleepers – like me – on long flights or overnight buses); anti-cold/flu tablets and throat lozenges; antiseptic, plasters, bandage, tape, safety pin, butterfly stitches; condoms; eye-drops; multi-vitamins; as for carrying an anti-biotic, take a general one but often it’s okay to find a specialized A/B locally, like I did in Yemen & later Morocco, when I got a hellish dental/gum infection. AND, along with this main first-aid kit I have a small purse of these items that stays in my daypack for immediate access. NOTE: If you have special needs / prescriptions – bring them all with you.

> TOILETRIES – again we have different needs but watch out this stuff can get weighty so keep bottles / packets small like sachets of shampoo and small soap; toothbrush, paste, floss; nail scissors & clippers; deodorant; comb & gel; razor, blades, tiny mirror; cotton buds; toilet tissue – have small bundles everywhere including in trouser pockets; moisturizer – essential in hot dry climates – is contained within your sunscreen. For re-supply all this stuff is readily available world-wide BUT if you have special needs then bring them from home.

> Packing it all in – have it organized so it flows easy – best with side-zipping packs as opposed to top-loading. And as mentioned earlier have everything compartmentalized into plastic transparent bags for easy identification and access, fast packing and extra water-proofing. Needless to say have stuff that you may need accessible or at the top or stashed in a side pocket – like a poncho for a sudden downpour or a guidebook ready to locate yourself when arriving in a city or finding a flashlight in black-outs. Obviously wrap clothing around fragile stuff and make sure bottles like mosquito repellent are in their own plastic bag to avoid contamination.

Now that all is said – Good luck: Pack and Go …
 

> PS: If you’re a traveling surfer or mountaineer then obviously there is much more you can take … other things that I don’t carry but others like are a washbasin plug – missing so often, so you can wash clothes, and a line of string and pegs to hang the washing on; personally, for a few dollars I employ a local to do my laundry.

TRAVEL ADVICE #3 – Hitch-hiking

To celebrate 20 years on the road – across the planet – I’ve decided to begin a series of advisory posts. First let me outline my experience … I have hitched the Sahara in 1991, north to south, across Algeria down into Niger; have gone overland – which was mostly hitching – from England to India, via Europe, Iran & Pakistan, in 1990; I’ve hitched across the Tibetan Plateau and over the Himalayan high passes into Nepal in 1994; I hitch-hiked across the desert from Jordan to Iraq in 1989 and across Northern Kenya into Ethiopia in 1994, and there’s also been dozens of smaller journeys in numerous countries ranging from New Zealand to Vietnam to Morocco to Scotland to Uruguay, etc, so here are some tips:

 

Hitching on trucks – the only way – from northern Kenya into Ethiopia, 1994

> While hitching is usually to save on transport costs often it’s the only viable means of transport, especially so in remote developing world regions where you may ride on top of a cargo truck, and if this is the case then 99% of the time you will be expected to pay, so agree on a price before you hop in/on. 

> Maintain eye contact with the driver even as he passes – often it’s at this point that they will slow, and stop. Always have your sunglasses off so your eyes are exposed, and smile slightly.

> Some people think that dress appearance helps/hinders the effort –maybe; all I know is that in my teens/20s/30s I was a long-haired dude in colorful, alternative clothes and this did not hurt my chances.

> Make sure you can carry your backpack for a few km, easily and without effort; heavy, bulky bags are a nightmare. Travel light.

> For marathon journeys carry some white A4 paper and a RED marker to write – in clear block letters – your destination and hold it above your head for each passing car to see. Often a joke can work or maybe a smiley face. EG: when I was stuck in Luxembourg I wrote my final destination – INDIA; that got attention and soon a ride out of a tough spot.

> Chose your hitching spot with care. Walk or get a taxi or bus to the edge of town, the city, the village. No one will stop at a bend or a busy intersection. If it’s very hot find a shady area. Don’t walk too far if the area is – like an endless desert. Find a good spot and be patient. Make sure the driver can see you at least 100 metres away and then they can assess you on the approach.

> Start your trip early in the morning – at dawn – if the distance is great, the land sparse, the road empty, and you should always have at least some water, and some light snacks / biscuits, maybe some salami or a tin of tuna, for emergencies.

> If it’s a long journey and the climate – EG: Europe – is temperate or cold carry a sleeping bag and plastic ground sheet so you can sleep anywhere alongside the route if you get stranded. And if it’s hot, off course carry extra water and use a hat & sunscreen.

> Always carry the essentials like a torch, map, rain-jacket or poncho, Swiss Army knife, a compass, tissue paper, basic medicines, etc.

> Hitching in Europe is illegal and dangerous on most major highways, so wait at petrol and restaurant parks and approach drivers directly or wait at the exits.

> Because the driver has picked you up often they will want conversation / company; so introduce yourself, your country, your journey and ask a few questions – if there’s no common language use charades, hands – and if the conversation continues fine, or maybe the driver prefers silence … You will assess this within the first 5 minutes. Be warned that numerous conversations during lots of short rides can get tiring but you’re obligated to be polite to those that are doing you this favour. 

> Sometimes it’s best to decline offers of short rides in favour of waiting for the perfect ride BUT often you have no choice or it’s too late in the day or few vehicles pass – so then take any offer.

> I’ve never had a really bad experience hitching but use common sense: avoid drunks, families are good, and if you’re female then be extra careful and use your intuition – if it feels bad – don’t ask why? just follow the vibe – and decline the offer.

> Remember: hitching the Developing World along major routes is often unnecessary as cheaply-priced buses and shared-taxis will ply all the main routes (but this is less so in parts of Africa).

> Hitching can be a great way to encounter the locals and often people will go out of their way for you – EG: buy you a meal, smoke a joint with you or offer you a place to stay, sometimes detouring off their route to take you closer to where you want to be.

Have confidence, be wise, and get on the road …

TRAVEL ADVICE 101

I’ve decided to begin a series of advisory blogs to celebrate 20 years on the road – across the planet: 1 > Travel advice 101 for backpacking in the Developing World, written here whilst in Freetown, Sierra Leone, West Africa: the first rules and probably the somewhat-fuckin’-obvious ones but one has to start somewhere, yeah? Okay.

> Get interested in a country or region, read, surf the web but don’t plan too intensely; better to have plenty of time and see what happens … be flexible; go with the flow. Plans change.

> Travel as light as possible: a heavy, bulky backpack will be your worse enemy … Besides: you can always buy cheaply and discard as you travel.

> BUT: bring all important items from home before you leave: EG: prescriptions/medicines, specialized camera / electronic items, guidebook, personal essentials …

> Buy quality footwear – hiking boots or x-country-sandals – if you want to get the miles without pain (but for about-the-town or beach then cheap jandals /thongs are okay). Likewise make sure your backpack is good – so zips or seams won’t bust within months.

> NEVER save money avoiding vaccinations – get all that are necessary. And travel insurance is good for piece of mind but not essential (if you are on a tight budget; take ya chances).

> Buying your flight via the internet is often the cheapest; but not always! Research.

> In most cases smile, wave, or say Hello / greet all people who meet your eye (unless avoiding touts or hustlers; or you’re a woman avoiding sexual harassment).

> Never carry the bulk of your money, credit card, passport in an obvious money-belt but rather one hidden beneath your clothes, and also use additional secret emergency stashes in a zipper-belt, in a shoe, or in a bag, etc. For dailytransactions rather than a wallet have small money in a plastic bag stuffed into a front pocket.

> Don’t wear a watch or expensive-looking bling; ethnic jewellery is okay.

> Best to avoid tap water unless purified or otherwise told its okay. Likewise salads washed in the same water – but peeled fruits are fine.

> Street food is cheap, yummy and essential to the experience – just chose carefully – busy means good, fresh, high turn-over; but all the same you may get a stomach upset simply from the change of diet.

> Rest assured you’re not alone: internet cafes are across the world – in most most major cities towns – and usually cheap with reasonable speeds.

> NEVER – no matter how convincing – get involved in get-rich-quick schemes or other great proposals – they are always scams.

> ALWAYS negotiate a price before using a taxi, rickshaw or motorcycle-taxi.

> It’s always good to learn at least Hello & Thank You in the local language.

> Don’t have fear about what might happen – unless it happens, which most-often, it doesn’t. Have confidence and fun, and get out there!

Fake police or corrupt cops – Nairobi, KENYA

Outside a church disassembling its Sunday mass a self-declared “Christian” approached me. He wanted to talk life. I thought okay, what-the-hell. He asked many questions as he led me to a quiet, outdoor cafe. There he told me his story.

He, a Rwandan who’d trekked across mountains to escape the tribal massacres, was on a Kenyan transit visa and needed to get to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, where he’d an uncle at the university who could help him. He asked me for money – $40 – so he could continue his journey, and I was replying no, sorry, when two men approached our table. One guy in a suit; the other dressed casual. Neither smiling.

They flashed ID – SECURITY / POLICE !

I thought – What-the-fuck? The bulky, casually-dressed dude took the Christian away as the other smaller, suited guy declared that the guy had been arrested. That he was a wanted terrorist! I thought this some kinda bad joke. And scoffed. The officer got shitty. He demanded to see my passport. I told him it was back at the hotel. He started asking questions: What was our business? What had we talked about? How did I know this man? He got aggressive; threatening me to take this situation seriously, to co-operate. 

The big man returned. They said they’d been watching us with binoculars from that tall circular tower – Nairobi’s landmark. They accused me of supplying him with false traveller’s cheques, then of giving him drugs. I started to shit myself: corrupt cops who wanna frame me for anything that pays.
 
The small, shrewd copper told me of the marijuana penalties. I replied I didn’t smoke. ”Not even cigarettes?!” demanded the other. ”No.” They inspected my hands. No stains. I couldn’t fathom whether they were convincing con men or corrupt cops.

And was that “Christian” part of it? They told me to stop lying, threatening – “Do you want to talk here or at the station.”  I replied “Here”; knowing that if these guys were cops it’d be very
difficult / very expensive getting released from a station, especially if they began the paperwork. I continued being polite, patient but firm.

Maybe I can get rid of them with a small bribe?

They insisted I show my traveller’s cheques, to compare mine with the suspects. If they didn’t match, then I was clear. I didn’t trust them. And was reluctant to reveal my hidden moneybelt (luckily, I’d left my visible moneybelt with my passport back in the hotel). I didn’t budge. I was to be charged.
 
They asked how I felt about spending time in a cell.

As they escorted me across the park another man appeared. The boss. I went through my story again. He too demanded to see my traveller’s cheques. A car was now waiting. I knew if I got in the car – or was forced, I was in for some serious trouble whether these guys were cops or con men. I then decided to show them my stash, and with their permission I walked alittle way off and out of their view I pulled a $20 cheque from my hidden moneybelt. I reckoned I could handle losing 20 bucks. I showed them the Amex cheque, a distinctively Australasian issue because it had – Westpac Bank – printed across it in red. This I pointed out: that the suspect couldn’t possibly have the same issue. It stumped them.

They wanted a couple of bucks – for beer, then said I was free to go.

During that hour I remained uncertain of their real identity. It seemed likely they were con men yet, as corrupt cops they fitted that ruthless stereotype typical of Hollywood movies depicting the Third World. Either possibility seemed plausible …

                                                         *

PS: a clipping from a Kenyan paper I came across while there: The Daily Nation: letters to the editor: POLICE MARRED HAPPY TOUR

[I and a fellow Kenyan recently toured Tanzania for five days ... as might be expected, we bought a few things, including three t-shirts, five cloth materials, a food mixer and a souvenir. We set off for Nairobi ... our luggage and papers were checked at the border and okayed by immigration officials. We then boarded a matatu (taxi-van) for Nairobi. We got to a road block in Kajiado and were asked to open our bags - only my friend and I. The police found in our bags the items earlier mentioned and asked us to produce "permits" for them, which, of course, we did not have. They asked the driver to leave us behind but he instead pleaded with them to have mercy on us. The police said they would consider it if my friend and I bribed them with Sh500 each. My friend and I were scared ... the police finally conceded a Sh100 discount and accepted Sh400 from each of us. The second nightmare came just after Maasai Girl's School, where we found another road block. The same process followed and bags were turned upside down again. Two policemen took Sh300 from us ...]

> photos of Nairobi & Kenya